Every Stage of Beard Growth Explained

Itchy. Scratchy. Bushy. No, we're not renaming the seven dwarfs. We're talking about the stages of beard growth. When men first decide they want to grow a beard, the biggest obstacle is wondering how long it's going to take. Nobody wants to go on a date or head into work looking like Tom Hanks in Castaway – it's just not a good look. 

You want to know how long the troublesome early stages are, so you can plan your life around it. You want a set beard growth timeline that'll help you weather the itchy, scratchy beginning as you count down the days to your glorious full beard.

If you're new to growing a beard, we've got you covered. Below, you'll find a comprehensive intro to the beard growth stages, covering the science behind your follicles. 

In this guide:

  • Quick Beard Growth Timeline
  • Hair Growth Stages
  • Beard Growth Stages

Quick Beard Growth Timeline

  • Weeks 1-2: Stubble appears, signaling the start of your beard journey. This stage is mainly about short, visible growth. 
  • Weeks 3-4: Enter the itchy phase, where new growth can irritate the skin. Moisturizing with beard oil helps soothe the skin. 
  • Weeks 5-8: Noticeable beard length with potential patchiness. Regular care and grooming shape the beard. 
  • Months 2-6: Full beard achieves maturity, requiring ongoing maintenance and styling to keep it looking its best.

Hair Growth Stages

Each beard growth stage isn't a scientific phase. It's some general guidelines that beard growers have repeatedly experienced over the centuries of practicing the art of beardcraft. However, there are some specific stages each hair follicle goes through.

It can sometimes seem like your hair just grows and grows forever. This isn't the case. Just like the hair on your head, each follicle passes through a 4-stage cycle, where the hair begins to grow, develop, and eventually falls out. 

The hair growth stages are: 

  1. Anagen Phase: This is the growth stage where your beard is actively getting longer. Expect this phase to last anywhere from a few months to several years, depending on your genetics.
  2. Catagen Phase: During this transitional period, which lasts a few weeks, your beard hair stops growing, and the follicle shrinks. It's like your beard is taking a quick breather!
  3. Telogen Phase: This is the resting stage. New hairs start forming under the old ones, preparing for the next growth spurt. This phase lasts around three months.
  4. Exogen Phase: Now it's time for old beard hair to fall out and make way for the new. You might notice some shedding, but don't worry; it's a natural part of the cycle.

Beard growth isn't exactly the same as normal hair growth. Generally speaking, the anagen phase (growth period) is shorter than scalp hair, lasting just a few months or a couple of years before shedding. Your beard hair is also heavily influenced by hormones, like testosterone and DHT, which affect the thickness and coarseness of the hair.

Lastly, as you age, these stages begin to slow down. You might find you lose more hair than you gain, leading to a patchier beard or just slower growth. 

Beard Growth Stages

Your beard growth timeline isn't nearly as clear-cut as the hair growth stages listed above. It's a gradual process where your beard develops day by day. That being said, there are still a handful of stages. We've narrowed it down to four:

Beard Growth Stage 1. The Stubble

Start the clock; you've just started to grow a beard. The first stage is stubble. During the first week, nothing much happens; however, you will notice your skin begins to darken as the hair becomes more and more prominent. 

Usually, you'll see two types of hair growth:

  1. The darker, coarser beard hair
  2. The lighter hair is known as vellus. 

The younger you are, the more vellus hair you have. Eventually, it gets replaced with darker hair as the hormone shifts the follicle's production. 

Most men have experienced "The Stubble" stage. You won't need any specialist beard products yet, although we recommend keeping your skin moisturized to promote growth. 

Beard Growth Stage 2. The Itch

After the first week, the stubble phase begins to end as each hair develops some length. Next up is the dreaded beard itch. This stage is usually the barrier that separates the boys from the men – the ones who are determined to grow a beard from those who are just trying it out. 

So-called "beard itch" occurs due to a combination of factors. The new growth of hair often has a sharp edge that can curve back and irritate the skin. The dryness and build-up of dirt and sweat worsen this irritation. 

The solution? Well, as you enter stage 2, you've got to start learning the art of beardcraft. That doesn't just mean keeping your beard clean; it means switching your moisturizing and washing product to something suitable for a beard. 

The basic starter kit includes:

  • Beard Oil: Beard oil is essential during the itchy stage of beard growth as it moisturizes both the beard and the skin underneath. This helps to soothe irritation and reduce flakiness by replenishing natural oils stripped away during cleansing, ultimately preventing dryness and reducing itchiness.
  • Beard Wash and Restore: A specialized beard wash is crucial for maintaining cleanliness without stripping natural oils, which is vital during the itchy phase of growth. It gently removes dirt, debris, and excess oil, mitigating the risk of irritation and inflammation that contributes to beard itch, while conditioning agents help soften the beard and soothe the skin.

Just be careful which products you pick. Some beard oils can turn rancid on your skin or contain artificial ingredients which increase dryness and irritation. Beard Sorcery's products are handmade with all-natural ingredients such as pure jojoba oil, virgin argan oil, or high-quality pumpkin seed oil. 

We recommend using either a beard comb or beard brush to help apply the oil and avoid developing intense beard knots. 

Beard Growth Stage 3. The Patches

The worst is behind you. As weeks 5-8 occur, your beard transitions away from the itch and simply becomes a little unkempt. Depending on your preferred style, some beard growers might jump off at stage 3, using a trimmer and some scissors to achieve their desired look.

Some popular beards at this length include:

  • The Goatee
  • The Van Dyke
  • The Balbo
  • The Corporate Beard

For the rest, there's still a little longer to go. If you're really struggling to deal with the unkempt, hobo-ish nature of your beard, you can use a trimmer or scissors to tidy up around the edges. Just remember, everything you take off, you'll have to grow again. 

Much of this period is defined by the patchiness of the beard. The patchiness begins from the moment your stubble appears. However, it doesn't begin to fill in until 1-3 months into the process. Using beard oil regularly and brushing the beard can help promote healthier growth and a more even appearance. 

Beard Growth Stage 4. The Beard

The final stage lasts as long as you want it to. You might be going for a thicker balbo beard or a full-on Viking. If the latter option is the case, you could continue to grow your beard for a further 3-6 months to achieve your desired look. 

At this stage, you should have an even, well-groomed beard. There's no excuse for scruffiness if you're routinely applying beard oil and keeping it clean with a specialized beard shampoo and conditioner. Of course, some people may continue to notice some patchiness. If that's the case, you can use products like Rogaine to stimulate beard growth

When you're dealing with so much beard hair, it's not uncommon for men to move away from just beard oil to something that provides a greater hold. Options include:

  • Beard Balm: Ideal for longer beards, beard balm provides hold and shape with ingredients like beeswax and shea butter, which also deeply condition to prevent dryness and breakage common in fuller beards.
  • Beard Cream: Perfect for daily hydration of longer beards, beard cream uses lighter oils like argan and jojoba to nourish without heaviness, keeping the beard soft and manageable without residue.

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