Pencil Mustache: How to Grow, Shave & Style It

Once the calling card of Hollywood charmers and shady jazz club villains, the pencil ’stache has slipped in and out of style more times than you’ve had hot dinners. But here’s the thing — it never really vanished. It just waited for the right face, and the right attitude, to bring it back.

Now? It’s having a quiet renaissance. From Chalamet’s red-carpet experiments to influencers resurrecting vintage grooming, the pencil mustache is no longer a punchline.

But make no mistake — this style isn’t for the lazy or half-committed. It demands precision, patience, and a steady hand (or at least a decent trimmer). One wrong move and you’re veering into 1930s dictator territory. No one’s rooting for that.

What is a Pencil Mustache?

A pencil mustache is a razor-thin strip of facial hair, trimmed with surgical precision to trace the line just above the upper lip. Usually no more than a few millimeters thick, it’s all about symmetry and clean contrast — often with a deliberate gap between hair and lip.

Some variations are split in the middle (à la John Waters), while others curve slightly or float higher up for extra flair. It was made famous in the early 20th century by men like Clark Gable and Errol Flynn — all suave smiles and silk lapels.

Types of Pencil Mustaches

Clark Gable wore one like a gentleman. John Waters wore one like a threat. Prince turned it into velvet. And Salvador Dali? His practically levitated. The pencil mustache might be a narrow strip of hair, but it comes in a few distinct flavors — each one saying something different about the man behind it.

The Classic

This is the go-to. A thin, well-defined line of hair that runs just above the upper lip — usually following its natural shape, with slightly softened edges. Clean, neat, timeless. It’s the version worn by Clark Gable, Errol Flynn, and just about every screen icon between 1930 and 1960.

The Double

Split neatly down the philtrum (that little groove in the middle of your upper lip), the double pencil has a small break between the two halves. It’s a minor detail, but it adds sharpness and formality — like punctuation for your face.

The Floating

This one sits slightly higher than normal — leaving a small, deliberate gap between the mustache and the top of the lip. It’s disconnected, almost like it’s hovering in place.

Dali’s version went skyward with waxed ends. Prince’s floated just enough to feel otherworldly. If the Classic is a tuxedo, this is silk and eyeliner. Subtle surrealism.

The Sharp Outline

This one’s all about precision. Edges squared. Corners crisp. Every line trimmed like it matters — because it does. There’s no blending, no softness, no room for error.

You’ll see this look in modern barbershop culture and among men who treat grooming like ritual. It works best with clean fades, sculpted cheekbones, and a face that can handle intensity. If your lines are even a little off, the whole thing falls apart.

Who Looks Good with a Pencil Mustache?

Not everyone — and that’s kind of the point.

The pencil mustache is about doing more with less. But it only works if you’re dedicated to upkeep and have the right bone structure. Neglect the edges or pair it with a soft face, and it quickly veers into “creepy uncle” territory.

But get it right — sharp features, sharper lines — and you’ll look like the sharpest cat this side of the 1940s.

Pencil mustaches tend to work best on:

• Oval or square faces, where the mustache adds structure without overwhelming your features
• Guys with clean upper-lip growth — if it’s patchy or uneven, you’ll be fighting a losing battle
• Men with defined cheekbones or strong brows, who can carry the minimalism without looking bare

And it’s not just about the mustache. This look needs a bit of style around it — clean collars, vintage cues, tailored lines. If you’re living in joggers and a hoodie, it’s going to feel out of place.

Clark Gable didn’t wear a hoodie.

How to Grow a Pencil Mustache

First: let it grow.

Don’t try shaping it on day two. You need a couple of weeks to get enough coverage — even if your goal is razor-thin, you still need raw material to work with. The biggest mistake guys make is trimming too early and ending up with a patchy mess they can’t fix.

Once you’ve got solid upper-lip growth, here’s the plan:

Step 1: Let it grow

Resist the urge to shape too early. You need full coverage across the upper lip before you can do anything with it. Uneven or patchy growth is game over.

Step 2: Rough in the shape

Once you’ve got the bulk, use a detail trimmer or scissors to outline the basic form — staying just above the lip line. Keep it wider than you think at first. You can always take more off later.

Step 3: Clear the edges

Shave the skin above and below the line — carefully. Use a transparent gel so you can see exactly what you’re doing. One slip, and you’ve got to start over.

Step 4: Dial it in

Once you’ve got the shape blocked in, use a detail razor to sharpen the edges. You’re aiming for symmetry, not thickness.

How to Shave & Style a Pencil Mustache

The pencil mustache is devilishly simple. That’s what makes it look so great and so hard to shave and style. Let it slide for a couple of days, and it loses its shape fast

What You’ll Need

You don’t need much, but the right tools make all the difference:

• Detail trimmer or Safety Razor
• Beard Sorcery Trimming Scissors 
• Transparent Shave Gel
• Beard Sorcery Beard Brush 
• Beard Sorcery Comb

How to Trim It Properly

1. Brush everything down. Use a comb or boar bristle brush to flatten the hairs. This gives you a true sense of the shape before trimming.
2. Trim the body of the mustache. Use scissors to carefully trim any overhanging hairs. Stay just above the lip line — leave a small gap if you’re going for that clean pencil look.
3. Outline the shape. Use your trimmer to define the top and bottom edges. Go slowly. Make small, even passes. Step back and check both sides often.
4. Shave the surrounding area. Clear all stubble above, below, and around the mustache. No fade, no blending. Clean contrast is what makes the pencil mustache work.
5. Final check and touch-ups. Comb again, re-check the lines, and clean up any uneven spots. Don’t obsess — but don’t leave it wonky, either.

Before You Reach for the Razor

The pencil mustache isn’t hard to grow, but it’s hard to grow well. 

A few things to remember:

• Start wide, then refine. It’s easier to take hair off than to put it back on.
• Keep the surrounding skin clean. The contrast is everything.
• Don’t half-commit. Either wear it like you mean it, or don’t wear it at all.

If you’re serious about getting it right, make sure your tools can keep up. Beard Sorcery’s Trimming Scissors, Boar Bristle Brush, and Sandalwood Comb are simple, solid, and built for precision.

Thinking of giving it a go? Start growing — and when it’s time to shape, don’t rush it. A pencil mustache might be thin, but it says a lot.

Read More:

• The Definitive Handlebar Mustache Guide: How to Grow and Style It
• 12 Best Mustache Styles for 2025
• How to Grow a Chevron Mustache [Definitive Guide]